Food on a Friday: The wonder of another world that's actually twinned with Mars
Murray Chalmers goes on a journey to Glenelg, where he finds honest, fresh food at the Inn and an energy that feels like ley lines humming quietly in the earth.
Derek Jarman often referred to the vast, shingled terrain of his beloved Dungeness as “the fifth quarter of the globe’’ and our trip this week to the Scottish Highlands gave me the distinct feeling Glenelg might be the sixth.
Not so much nestled as strewn into a landscape of wonder, Glenelg has such an air of otherness that our trip there felt very much like the end of something – or maybe the beginning.
It wasn’t just the incredible light, the shimmering, yet often turbulent omnipresence of the Sound of Sleat, the remarkably preserved Brochs (there are three) or even the eight-mile winding single-track road you must traverse to enter this land, so otherworldly it’s actually twinned with Mars.
Of course, all those very tangible things matter, as does the constant looming presence of the mountains of Skye - seemingly almost within touching distance of the shore, but actually a completely thrilling and unique short ferry ride away (the ferry is now closed for the winter – we were so lucky to be there for the last day of sailing).
The extraordinary energy
But really what makes Glenelg so extraordinary is something intangible, an innate energy that inspires equal parts reflection and complete hedonism, as if some very special ley lines are humming quietly in the earth beneath us and in the big sky above.
For an ex young punk I sure make a good old hippie because I completely loved Glenelg and its unique, almost spiritual energy, with a passion that will make me return there again and again.
All the powerful elements mentioned above come together brilliantly in the Glenelg Inn, where we were berthed for two nights, and where the art of hospitality is powered as much by a sense of community, conviviality and cordiality as it is by the well-stocked bar.
This is a place to kick back and forget the world, from the minute you walk in and see the roaring fire to the time you collapse into bed with one too many whiskies in place to power you to sleep and sweet dreams of a better, simpler world, a world where your organic vegetables come from the cart outside the hotel and your money is left in an honesty box.
We stayed on Tuesday and Wednesday this week and the Inn was absolutely packed both nights, a sure sign of somewhere that sits so resolutely at the core of this community that it would be hard to imagine life here without it as its beating heart.
The food here is honest, wholesome, well-cooked bistro/pub food, as if you just chanced upon your favourite gastropub at the end of the Earth.
Nothing not to love
Over two nights we ate our way through the menu, which changes daily, and there was nothing not to love.
A Cullen skink with sourdough focaccia was everything you want from this Scottish classic whilst the fish and chips was exemplary, the batter as crispy as Rachel Reeves delivering a budget warning.
My confit duck leg came with fennel and butterbeans, the whole thing not so much anointed with cider as embroiled in it.
A slow-cooked Orkney mutton leg was served with garlic mash and red cabbage and was good enough to dispel the memory of seeing 10 sheep cut off by the tide earlier, turning all of our party vegetarian in sympathy.
Desserts are wonderfully on point and included a textbook sticky toffee pudding (I was with two Californian residents who had never had it before), a chocolate expresso mousse with a chocolate sandwich sable and the most heavenly clotted cream panacotta with honey roast plums and granola, which made you believe that heaven really is a place on Earth - and that place is called the Glenelg Inn.
Prices? I’m afraid I was too deliriously happy to take many photos or keep a note, but starters are around the £8 mark, mains are £15 - £20, and desserts approximately £6.50. A very good selection of Scottish cheeses is £10.45.
Dogs are not just welcomed but fawned over.
Sheila, the lovely owner of the Inn, radiates a sense of quiet pride in what she’s achieved here – a room glowing with wood smoke, candles and bonhomie, her dog Lola quietly asleep on a chair as the evening starts to feel like everything you really want from the dimming of the day.
I can’t recommend Glenelg and the Inn highly enough. It’s one of those places you just feel instantly at home in, whether it be the beautiful drive there through some of the most spectacular scenery in Scotland, or just a desire to shift down a gear or two, even for a few days.
It’s rustic, cosy, unmanicured and seemingly effortless – until you realise just how much effort goes into creating such a laid-back yet insanely potent, heady brew of good vibes and good times (as an example of this, I was surprised to recognise some beautiful Timorous Beasties wallpaper in our room).
An absolute joy.
Glenelg Inn, Glenelg, Kyle of Lochalsh, Ross-Shire, IV40 8JR. T: 01599 522273. E: info@glenelg-inn.com . Instagram: @glenelg.inn. Glenelg Ferry is now closed for the winter but follow their great Instagram feed @glenelgskyeferry.
All Scots Ink reviews are based on anonymous visits to restaurants/cafes and paid for by the reviewer.