Food on a Friday: Fresh and exciting - just what we need
Murray Chalmers visits Eastfield in Dundee, and he's so glad he did. He's loved it since it opened in May - it's a place that just gets everything right.
In these brutal times, when you’re either on the bus or off the bus - maybe it was ever thus, since Ken Kesey - then Eastfield is most definitely up there on the front seat of the top deck, not just speeding forward faster than everyone else in Dundee, but very much in its own lane.
It wouldn’t be much of an exaggeration to say that chef Harris McNeill has brought modernity to Dundee dining, something that was sorely needed in a city which should be much better served by its hospitality industry. People have been getting away with culinary murder here for way too long.
I mean, you know a big city is in trouble when the opening of a Wagamama feels like the catering cavalry has arrived to save a centre plagued by a stultifying swarm of coffee shops and cupcakes.
Dundee deserved better and, with Eastfield, at last there’s somewhere to recommend without reservation, both to Dundonians and to visitors.
A long time coming
I first wrote about this place in May, a few days after it opened, and my excitement was palpable.
This really had been a long time coming, an alternative universe to when diners had to endure show-off ‘cheffiness’ and seven-course tasting menus, when all you really want is a simple plate of food, sourced and cooked perfectly - without the chef taking a celebratory waltz around the dining room every time you broke his bread.
I wrote then; “At last!! Somewhere in Dundee gets it right!! Delicious breakfast in Eastfield. Everything perfect – the food, the charming service, the room, the music, the products on sale….this is what Dundee needs! Excellent breakfast and I can’t wait to come back for lunch. Wahey!! There is an oasis in the desert….”.
Since those early days Eastfield has only got even better, starting slowly, then channelling quiet confidence as they flexed their culinary muscles, expanded the menu and realised they have a market right here in a city that was crying out for what they’re offering - which they describe, typically disingenuously, as “food on plates, coffee in cups”.
This is so much more than that.
My most recent lunch there was yesterday, October 10, when I arrived just before 3pm, solo, ravenous and slightly anxious that they might have stopped serving or that most of the good stuff would be sold out.
Don’t fret, it’s relaxed
I didn’t have to fret; Eastfield is open from 9am – 4pm, Wednesday – Sunday, and you have no idea how refreshing this relaxed concept of all day dining is (you should order food before 3pm though – apart from anything else, you don’t want to bolt food that has had so much love put into it).
Breakfast is served from 9am and never stops, and there is nothing on this menu you won’t want to eat; my regular breakfast here is sage fried egg, purple kale, confit garlic and toast (£8) but yesterday’s special of oyster mushrooms, thyme, cream, poached egg and sourdough toast sounded like as good a way to spend £12 as I can think of.
The menu is loosely divided into breakfast, starters and mains – the latter two served between 12 and 3pm – although really you could eat brilliantly here just with their classic St John recipe for Welsh Rarebit made with Isle of Mull cheddar and served with pickle (£6).
Affordable and restorative
If ever a dish was both restorative and 3pm coma/ nap-inducing, this is it. A classic done so, so well, and cheaper than a Pret sandwich.
Because it was so late for my lunch I chose two lighter dishes and both were wonderful – fried Guardswell green tomatoes with a textbook celeriac remoulade (£6) and a beautifully vibrant roast broccoli, chickpeas, seeds, almonds and raisins (£13).
Although I chose two vegetarian dishes – not least because I’d been poring over the new Zoe/ Food for Life cookbook before I set off for lunch – there are more meat options on the menu than when Eastfield opened, and I have to say that chicken pie envy (lemon roasted chicken pie, kale, courgette at £20) is a real thing.
In fact, I’m seriously thinking of going back to savour it today after writing this review, having seen a picture on Eastfield’s Instagram.
A bavette steak with braised endive, shallot and salsa verde (£22) sounds equally appealing.
Dessert was autumn on a plate – poached quince, crème fraiche, whey caramel and hazelnuts (£6), although the cakes here are hard to resist.
Friendly, attentive service
Service is friendly, assiduous and smart and the surroundings are happily minimal - basic tables and school-type chairs, industrial shelving and areas of brick wall giving the place an air of quiet confidence.
A brilliant selection of products is available to buy, including Glen Lyon Roasters coffee, charcuterie and Eastfield’s own pickles, jams, sauces and even ketchups.
This place has is all just right.
There is nothing I don’t like about Eastfield, which is bringing something to Dundee that no one else is - a casual dining spot with great sourcing of ingredients, wonderful cooking and brilliant service. Top stuff!
Eastfield, 91 Perth Road, Dundee, DD1 4HZ. Instagram: @eastfield_dundee .
Open Wednesday – Sunday, 9am – 4pm, no reservations.
All Scots Ink reviews are based on anonymous visits to restaurants/cafes and paid for by the reviewer.
Yes to all this Murray - it’s been a long time coming! The hype of the arrival of Wagamama was so depressing. Pizza Express had the same awed anticipation, then closed some time later. This was an indication of what Dundee (a university town) thought of a fairly decent pizza - probably too expensive for the city dwellers at the time and a dead city centre, especially at night. Or maybe high rates killed it.
I am not comparing Eastfield to Pizza Express at all btw. Times have moved on and food tastes and appreciation of well-sourced ingredients have begun to change here at last and Eastfield is leading the game. I love the interior - so simple with welcoming service, great music and a master at the coffee machine. I love the look of the expanded menu now that it has more meat options …and the Perth Road is the perfect setting for it.